Valdez ... I honestly didn't think we would bother to visit Valdez. I knew we were going to the Kenai Peninsula and figured that would be enough of the coastal area. I always pictured Valdez as a very commercialized place, since it is a major shipping port and the end of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. I never bothered to read much about it in the guide books, since I didn't expect to go there. To my surprise, Donny wanted to go, and I am so glad we did!
After we left Paxson and headed south on the Richardson Highway, the weather gradually worsened, becoming cloudy and gray. Most of the 185 miles to Valdez is paved road constructed over permafrost, so it is often rough and heaved. The Trans-Alaska Pipeline is often visible in the distance, and there are many bridges over rushing silt-laden glacial streams and rivers. The highway passes through Sourdough, Gulkana, and Copper Center. A lot of the land here is owned by the Ahtna Athabascan people, who also control nearly all the water access on the Copper River. Most of the way is nothing but flat tundra covered with stunted black spruce as far as the eye can see. However, about 50 miles from Valdez, everything changes! And, fortunately for us, at about this point, the sky cleared and the sun came out.
Gradually the glacier covered peaks of the Wrangell-St. Elias range come into view on the east, and the Chugach Mountains begin to be visible to the south and west. The road begins to rise until it passes through Thompson Pass. The mountain vistas from this pass were breath-taking! Most impressive of all was Worthington Glacier, the toe of which can be viewed closely from the road.
The road then descends sharply for nearly 10 miles and culminates in a fabulous place called Keystone Canyon. For about three miles, the road and gray silt-laden glacial waters of the Lowe River twist and turn through a narrow canyon with nearly vertical walls. Three waterfalls, Huddleston, Bridal Veil and Horsetail, cascade straight down the cliff face into the river. At the end of the canyon, the view opens again to one mountain range after another, all snow capped and craggy.
The city of Valdez itself is also very beautiful. It is completely surrounded by mountains and glaciers, except for the harbor. I can't imagine what it would be like to live there. Maybe residents get so familiar with the sights they don't see them anymore, but I don't see how they could!
After visiting Valdez, we headed back north and took a little side road to a small town called Chitina. We had read in the Milepost magazine that we could see fishermen catching salmon with dip nets and fish wheels. We spent the night in a little rough camp gound near the Copper River, planning to check out the town in the morning.
The camper is having another small problem -- one of the suspension airbags has apparently sprung a leak. Donny added some air, but it will probably need to be replaced.
Until next time,
Cheryl and Donny
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